** Just lost another entry. Sadness. **

We left for Halong Bay early in the morning, travelling by bus to the harbour. Now, I've spent many hours on this trip travelling from place to place. Trains and buses and boats have all been used. Nothing could beat this next way of travel.

We went by boat, which in itself wasn't remarkable. But they had laid white table cloths out on the tables and we sat back and ate what was literally a feast: prawns, fish, spring rolls, morning glory and squid. It felt simply decedant, leaning back and eating yummy food while looking out onto world heritage scenes. Breathtaking, to say the least.

On the way, we visited the surprising cave. I won't say what was so surprising. You'll have to visit it yourself to find out.

We arrived on Cat Ba Island after 3 hours of cruising and hiked up the hillside to get to our hotel. It's a strange little village, with many bars and a couple of hotels, but not many tourists that I could see. While there, I was asked 1 million times to buy pearls, was held up for pringles by two boys with a plastic machine gun, and (in the process of getting my photos put onto a CD) chased a little girl through the streets and into a backroom (at their request).

Then came the experience I was dreading the most. There are many things I've feared about this trip, but nothing compared to this:

Walking the streets of Saigon at night? Been there, done that.
A squat toilet on a train that has been used for 48 hours? Held my nose, survived.
Clinging to the back of a motorcycle after realising that the driver had been drinking? Argh, yes.

Karoke? Noooooo.

See, at the beginning of the trip, Lam had warned us this was coming. On the trip to Hue he had even regalled us with his own versions of 'Ho Chi Minh' and 'Eternal Flame'. I knew that the night of Karoke was going to happen, but I hoped to come down with a bad case of food poisoning and thus would be excused. Alas, that was not the case.

I came, I saw, I (unfortunately) listened. Relectantly, with two fellow non-fans, I even tortured listeners with our own song (I had appropriately chosen 'HELP!'). Picture evidence will not be forthcoming. Ever.

Moving on.

The next morning we went on a Kiyacking tour of the nearby islands. It was three hours of work, even though I was paired with Andrew who said he wouldn't mind doing most of it. Getting close to those limestone cliffs was great, and the beach was perfect and almost untouched. Less pretty were the dogs who tried to attack us as we slinked past the floating villages. Also slightly less than picturesque was what was floating on the surface of the surrounding water. The conditions those people live in are sometimes quite terrible and even worse in contrast with the beauty that surrounds them. Lam calls it the Vietnamese 'struggle of life'.

We left the island using less luxurious travel: the same boat the locals use. Not the best way to spend three hours although I guess it shows me what they go through. Don't use the toilet on that boat, though. Trust me on that.

We arrived in Hanoi at 6pm. That night was our last night together. I was sad - I've had such a wonderful time and had such amazing experiences but the time has moved by far too fast!

-- I have already written about my time in Hanoi once. Unfortunately, and for no apparent reason, the computer I was using decided to die. So, here we go again. --

We arrived after fourteen hours of train at around 4:30am in the morning. There were no hotel rooms available for us this time, however, so after dumping our bags in the hotel Lam took us to a cafe for a big western breakfast. (Actually, this is the first time in my life I've ordered a 'big breakfast' and I ate all of it.) We also had our second rat sighting for the trip... which didn't put me off my food. Either I was really hungry or I'm becoming less squeamish, or both.

After a prolonged breakfast Lam lead us in a walking tour to 'orientate' ourselves. He pointed out the best photo place, the lake, the market, good restaurants, etc. Now, this all might have been useful if I had a clue where I was. The streets curve and wind... and lets face it, I don't have the best navigational sense in the world. I once got lost going around the block. Basically, by the time the walking was over, I knew that Good Things existed but not where they were. (This is in no way Lam's fault, who gave me a map AND wrote on it.)

We still had a good four hours before our rooms would be available so we all collectively left to visit Uncle Ho. I won't go into details, but getting to see him was an experience in itself. By the time I'd been through three checkpoints and marched single file on the road - not the pavement - and then emerged on the pavement - not the road - I was almost too bleary eyed to properally appreciate the experience.

All I'll say is: It looks like he's lit from within by neon blue lights. I think he's wax.

I've two minutes of free internet time left, so in broad brush strokes, the rest of my day in Hanoi was spent by visiting the war museum (where we admired items such as 'the crockery used by x division while in hiding') and then shopping. Again. Dinner was really nice. Early to bed for me because we were leaving at 8am for Halong Bay.

Of all the places I've left, I left Hue with the least amount of joy. I mean, as nice as it is, I think I'm tired of ruins.

We got on the train at 3pm. The train was the worst one yet - very old - but it wasn't so bad. I was feeling a little bit tired and antisocial, so I read a book after 'dinner' and listened to my MP3 player. Incidently, my playlist managed to be agreeable to all markets: youth, oldies, Australian, Vietnamese and UKers. Thus proving that my taste truely is universal.

More about Hanoi to follow - once I find a computer that works. This is the most expensive internet access I've ever used and it's still dodgy.

When I left to go to Vietnam I made a pact with myself that I would try things I would never normally try and not turn down activities without a good reason. These past few days I've really been putting my promise to the test! See if you can spot the four things I'd probably never do normally.

As I wrote previously, I started riding motorcycles. Once I started, I couldn't stop. They're just too convinient. Fun, too, although there's a little voice at the back of my brain going: I'm going to die, I'm going to die, I'm going to die. All too often, I'm very aware of the air rushing past, and the road rushing past only half a metre away from my backside. Oyh! But what a rush. That said, I don't think I'm going to be buying my own anytime soon.

I'll begin three nights ago, in Hoi An (wow, I haven't updated for a while! But you'll see why). The reason this night was so memorable was because of the food; we had a seafood feast. Yum! Crabs, fish of some kind, prawns, seafood rice porrige... most definantly a feast. Lam very kindly helped me dissect my crab and I still maintain that it is a very icky process to go through to get to some really nice meat. The fish, baked in banana leaves, was the best. This turned out to be a good thing as the next night (after a day of fittings and collecting that I won't bore you with) we had our cooking course where I learnt how to prepare the exact same fish. And to cook vegetable spring rolls. And squid (which is still not my most favourite food in the world.) I have the recipes and will be using them as soon as I find out how to buy banana leaves in Australia.

The next morning (yesterday) we were going to take a bus to Hue (pronounced 'Whay' - like 'way out'.) So I had come home early to pack. With much effort, I managed to fit everything into my backpack. I had pushed, and squeezed, and compressed, and prayed and finally, yes, finally it was done. I was so pleased as I went to bed that I dreamt all night about red boots (don't ask).

Then yesterday I woke up, and went to pick up my bag. At least, I tried. I huffed, I puffed and I think my face turned a strange shade of lobster. Okay, okay, maybe I should've tried that earlier! Anyway, with an hour before we were going to leave I ran out and spent $10 on a dufflebag with wheels to put my heavier artifacts inside, packed, ate breakfast and collected my valuables out of the safe. Impressed?

Apparently, the bus trip between Hoi An and Hue is one of the seven things that the Lonely Planet guide reckons you must do in Vietnam. I'm not a fan of that means of transport, so I remained sceptical. But it certainly was a packed trip. We started up by visiting the Marble Mountains where (if you climb 210 very steep and uneven steps) you'll find caves and shrines and temples. Believe it or not, I managed to make it to the top. Even more amazing, I made it back again. Picture proof to follow.

I returned to the bus to find that it had been in an accident while we were away. Nothing big, but the bus behind it hadn't stopped in time and they'd scraped together. Insurance works differently in Vietnam and $50US passed hands before we left to our next stop: China Beach.

According to Lam, China Beach is where the GIs were sent for R&R (R&R being one of his favourite phrases). They liked it so much that some of them went AWOL afterwards. It wasn't so pleasant for us - no sun, and some pretty choppy seas - but it was nice to stretch our legs before we drove through Elephant Pass. Or at least, that's what I think it's called. I didn't see any Elephants.

The road clings to the mountain-side and there are some pretty spectactuar views of the ocean. Very pretty. There's a lookout at the top where the Americans had a small outpost and we stopped there for pictures. There the vultures struck - by which I mean the rather crazy old women vendors, who bickered and pushed and asked 'Where you from?' until I was ready to run into one of the bunkers and not come out again.

'Where you from' is the question that most of the street vendors will ask. This is quickly followed by 'How old you?' and 'Are you married?' If you're really lucky, she might touch your cheek and say 'You beautiful.' Finally, at last, she'll ask you to buy something. The problem is that you just can't ignore someone who is asking polite questions, even if you know it's the way they sell things and you've heard it fifty times that day. I feel guilty giving them the cold shoulder, which means that most of them think I'm a sucker and start following me around everywhere.

Anyway, we briefly stop at a restaurant for lunch where Lam says that the only thing we can eat is fried rice, noodles or chips - anything else 'not good'. Then, finally, at 3pm yesterday I arrived in Hue.

You'd think that would've been the end of the day. Instead, we were offered the chance for a bicycle ride around the countryside to visit a village. I was torn, but given the alternative was trying to ride a motorcycle or staying in my room, I decided to go for it.

Now, we were told that it would be 2 hours and wouldn't involve city riding. Three hours later I returned back to the hotel after riding 12 kms, cycling through the streets and straight through a busy roundabout (back of the brain voice continues: I'm going to die, I'm going to die), and saying 'hello' to every little child that came running out to see the funny fat Australian balancing periously on an ancient bike. My legs were not happy with me. Neither, incidently, was my backside... but you didn't hear that.

(In the village, there were the cutest two little boys. They only knew the question 'Where you from' and asked each one of us in turn, rapid fire, not listening to the answers until one of us replied: 'Vietnam'. That confused them.)

We went out for dinner that night (indian - not bad, even though the restaurant didn't have the main ingredient for most of its dishes... chicken.) I went home early, and had a bath of exactly three inches in depth to sooth my sore muscles.

That brings me to today. Wow, this is a long post. I wonder if anyone is going to get this far?

We took a boat up the Perfume River (name rather misleading) and visited a temple and then some ancient tombs. Which rock. When I die, put me in one of those.

Incidently, the people here used to burn paper versions of the things that their dead loved ones might need in the afterlife... including exact replicas of boeing 747s and computers. The government has put a stop to the excesses of this custom and you can get a fine for buying things to burn like that. (To put this into perspective, people were burning $200US. Not a good thing for the economy, I guess.)

We returned in a 20 minute motorcycle ride. Afterwards, three of us went out to visit the citidal. It was pretty amazing. The only thing was that the ancient tiles that they have are EXTREMELY slippery. Note the use of all caps. It was like walking on ice. Thankfully, I got through it without falling over. Yet.

Photos will follow which'll explain far better than my words.

Well, that, and I'm hungry and we're going out to dinner. Alas, Italian. Everyone else wants a break from Vietnamese - not me. after all my fasting during the first part of the trip, I'm enjoying being able to taste the dishes I could previously only asthetically admire.

Tommorrow I have a free day until 3pm. (More shopping... no! Must resist!) Then we catch the train to Hanoi where we arrive at 5am without hotel rooms. That should be fun, given that it was 6 degrees there last week!

This is the tail end of my trip and I'm sad; I'm also trying to cram in so much into every minute. I don't want to waste a second.

(I'm thinking about going to China at the end of the year. Hrmmmmmmmm....)

You can't walk more than two metres without tripping over a tailor. Or a shoe maker. Or some more silk scarfs. Or art. Historical, beautiful, and full of shopping: what more could a girl want?

We arrived yesterday morning, after a much better train trip. The beds were nicer, and I think we were all more used to the routine. Plus, I'd picked up a pack of cards (although I need counters to set up my own moving casino). You store your bags underneath the bottom bunk, and they're quite hard to lift (so no photos of the train this time, because it was safely under there with my wallet and valuables. Next time.)

We arrived in the morning, and Lam took us on the walking tour to beat all walking tours. We're quite a way from the centre of town (also known as the the old town). Anyway, after taking us to various places and showing us the best tailors (in his opinion) we were off on our own!

Now, everyone who knows me will guess what a dangerous thing that is. I did two things that I'm well-known for. I shopped, and I got completely lost.

Over the past two days, I've so far bought: Presents for home, three dresses, two suits, five shirts, (plus three for Amie!), a pair of boots with the design chosen from a catalogue, and a pair of leather shoes.

Oh, and I almost forgot. I also found a silversmith who produces Georg Jenson designs. At last, something I can wear with my beautiful original Splash brooch.

Yesterday evening we ate at the Banana Lounge before retiring to our very lovely hotel (a big step up from the one in Nha Trang) for some pool.

Today has been spent mostly having fittings and avoiding the torrental rain. I started the day with my first motorcycle ride ever. Which was a crazy, crazy feeling. I'm not sure if I loved it, or just thought I was going to die! There were moments where I could feel the wind rushing past the milimetres between my knee and the truck/cyclist/car next to me. Not my favourite form of transporation, but I just held on till my knuckles where about to burst out of my hand, and concerntrated on not leaning one way or the other.

I bought a pile of scarfs from a woman with a tiny shop and she introduced me to her 89 year old grandfather. She's 21, and has been looking after her grandparents since her father died 4 years ago.

After the imposing heat of Saigon and Nha Trang, I've enjoyed the rain - it's so cooling. The locals think I'm mad, though, as I turn down every offer of an umbrella or poncho. They try to stop me as I walk down the street:

"Umbrella?"
"Kong Com On" (No, thanks. Spelling improvised.)
"Umbrella? Only ____?"
"No. Kong. Kong Com On. Don't need."
"Don't need? I give you cheap price."
Michelle continues wandering off into the distance, leaving the poor street vendors watching after her with wide eyes.

Just a quick entry as I kill a few hours before running off to the night train again!

Yesterday was a rather damp day - raining on and off. Never-the-less, the mud baths were fantastic! My skin doesn't seem noticeably smother, though. (Although, apparently it cures bone TB?)

Today was wonderful. It was relatively sunny - I even got a slight sunburn! We checked out of our room at 8am and headed off on a boat trip. First, we went to a cove for some snorkling. I feel that I would've appreciated this more if I'd brought my contacts and could actually make out what I was looking at. At one point, I swum over something that could've been some coral, a giant clam, or a fountain that someone had dumped into the middle of the ocean. Afterwards, we went to a beach, to sunbake, before sailing to a seafood lunch. To get to the seafood lunch was an adventure. We had to balance - yes, balance, all eleven of us - on a raft and be pulled into shore. A photo will be coming up later so you can marvel at our skill. Also amazing is that I didn't fall into the water once, even after having to bounce my way over eleven or so docked boats to get to the 'dock'.

We wandered through the fishing village after lunch (with all the children waving at us) before heading off for a quick swim off-shore (oh, the lovely, cool water!) and then returned for a quick shower.

Tonight we have the night train to Delat. (I didn't spell that right, but you get the idea). Then we take the bus to Hoi An where we now get THREE nights instead of two. My cup runneth over. More time to get clothes made!

Wish me luck on the train - I'm in the top bunk and I'm not quite sure how I'm going to manage to climb up there.

I hope everyone is enjoying their new year!

Here are a few of my photos from Saigon. Finally, a computer with a USB port and a few moments to take a breath.


The streets were so busy that I had a few near-death experiences when crossing the road. I think I have the hang of it now, and am able to fearlessly step in front of traffic. This skill should come in useful once back in Australia.


One of the many, many left-overs from the war at the war museum.


Reunification in the background; foreground is a tank. Not one of the tanks that actually broke down the gates. No, those are in a museum in Hanoi. This is one 'just like it'.


Reunification Palace is filled with little escape routes. When the second President saw that there was no hope, he escaped up to the roof and sailed away on the helicopter there with quite a bit of money. The third President only lasted 36 hours or so.


This is the view from Reunification Palace, showing some of the French influence.


And nothing says France more than your very own Notra Dame.

One of the benefits of the tour is how much we cram into such a short period of time. Since I last wrote, I've been to the ChiChi tunnels, survived the streets of Saigon at night, wandered to the delta and held a snake and braved the not-so-bad night trains.

The ChiChi Tunnels... well, all I'll say is that we humans do terrible things to eachother, but can survive a whole lot. The size of the hole they disappeared down... tiny. You just can't see it, even knowing what you are looking for. And the design of the tunnels themselves are pure genuis. The traps - so close to the American base - must have made a patrol a desperately nerve-wrecking duty.

After the tunnels, we headed back for dinner and some fabulous spring rolls. Walking home, we had to wade through swarming motorcycles - seriously, I can't put into words how many there were. It was like a river of them, mostly couples. Meanwhile, high above the street, a propoganda poster asked people to use the public buses and not motorcycles. Obviously, having a great effect. Couldn't get a great photo - too much bussle!



The next day we rose at around 6am to pack, and move out of our rooms. Once all the formalities had been done with - and the hotel stuffed up once again with the other guests - most of us headed down on a tour to the delta region. There, we took a boat to Dragon Island and Unicorn Island where we were ferried from tasting station to tasting station, took a raft trip, and I held a python. Well, briefly, until it started winding around my arm and I dumped it back on the guides with much glee. Bet you didn't expect me to do that! Well, it wasn't a spider. Speaking of which, some of our travellers who have come from Cambodia took their revenge on spiders by eating them. And proceeded to be the sickest they've ever been in their life. Apparently you're only meant to eat the legs. Some of the girls suggested that the palm wine that they bought in one of those plastic gasoline bottles might be to blame - personally, I think it must have been the spdier. Good for nothing creatures!







Last night, Lam hustled us to the train with an hour to spare. Now, I've heard a lot of talk while here about the really bad state of the trains. To be honest, I didn't think they were that bad... yet. The eleven hour trip wasn't the most fun thing I've done in my life, and I avoided the squat toilet opening onto the tracks, but ... not hell. Not, yet, anyway - since the trains head all the way up to Hanoi, I suspect as we go on they'll get dirtier and icker.

We arrived here in Nha Trang at 5am, got a hotel room (cheer!) and were told to be up by 9am for Lam's briefing. While waiting for a room, a bunch of drunk french young men came in wrestling and broke some glass. This certainly is a party town!

In 200 metres along the roads of Nha Trang, I've been hassled more than all my stay in Saigon. That includes when I wandered the roads at night on my first day. Cyclos trot beside me, trying to convince me to take a trip. Not the best impression of a town I've ever had! I'm a little bit off-colour, so I'm going to head back to the hotel after this for a good sleep. At 2pm, we head off for the mud baths - which I have high expectations of.

So much for culture. Having exhausted both myself and Country Michelle, we through the idea of pagodas out the window and went in search of Fanny. Stop sniggering. Fanny is the best ice cream on earth! And, thanks mostly to the other Michelle's navigational skills, we found it. I fell in love. Hopefully I'll have time to make another trip there, afterwhich pictures will follow.

On the way we went into a shop called Saigon Kitsch which had some great overpriced stuff including propoganda posters I fell in love with, but couldn't afford. Ah, well. On our way back from this cultural experience, during which I was looking out for ATMs everywhere, we came across some strangely bizzare sights. Not only were there many dancing santas clustered around the entrance to one shop - the Vietnamese using 'rubber time' and thus still seeing it as Christmas - but there was a three-story high eiffle tower made out of Tiger beer cans. I took a photo, mostly out of disbelief.

We met up with the tour at 6pm and the leader, Lam, is fantastic. He's really friendly, has a great sense of humour, and keeps on saying: "I worry so you don't have to, this is your holiday!"

That evening, after The Talk of what not to do and what to do, and scaring us females with tales of the train hygine, half the group went out to this Vietnamese BBQ. They bring out this amazing quality beef - almost sushimi quality - and then a huge pot of red-hot coals. We had to put the meat on the grill above the pot, and turn them using amazing chopstick skills. As one of the guys groaned: "I went on holiday so I wouldn't HAVE to cook." Of course, it was delicious and I managed to eat my fill on $4 Australian, including drinks.

Michelle, who I share my room with, does snore and talk in her sleep but helpfully provided me with earplugs. I still had a bit of a restless night (probably to make up for how well I slept the night before!)

And now... onto today!

Those of you who have been to the heaty tropics will understand the feat that we accomplished so far today. We walked - yes, walked - to the War Museum. I left thoroughly disgusted with mankind. Agent Orange is the work of the devil, I swear. Afterwards, we walked to Reunification Palace, where we walked up to where the helicopter is parked (similar to the one the 2nd President escaped in) and then down to the bunker/basement. I imagine the American war room looks much different to the simple room with handdrawn maps.

We then proceeded to walk to Notradame, the post office and then the market before I escaped back to the hotel.

More information later, because I have to run - after a mere one hour break I'm off to the ChiChi tunnels!

As I was waiting to get on the plane to Ho Chi Minh, I met the most amazing man. He was a vietnam vet from Australia. He had a blood disease from all the Agent Orange - one that he says will kill him. Nevertheless, he was such a steady, friendly and peaceful person. Very accepting. Having retired, he is now teaching english to Vietnamese children, for free. He also helped me with understanding the paperwork you need to fill out before entering Vietnam. Very patient!

I arrived in Vietnam at 4pm and got picked up by the prearranged taxi that then took me to a hotel that WAS NOT prearranged. Apparently the hotel I'd booked at that the Intrepid tour was starting from was full. I had a look at the room and double-checked the price before agreeing to stay there - now I realise that it's a nicer hotel than the one I'm at now! Not that this one is bad. (By the way? Internet pictures not indicative of the actual condition of the rooms.)

Upon changing clothes, I wandered outside and promptly felt very alone in such a huge, huge city. I didn't give up though (although I swear I saw my life pass before my eyes after crossing the road) and explored the market and my surroundings, in search of a cheap phone, internet and food. Not finding the first two, and being ready to collapse due to lack of sleep, I just grabed a coke and used the phone at the hotel for a relatively expensive but worthwhile phonecall home to let my parents know that I'm all in one piece. Oh, the sound of their voices - it'd been twelve hours since I could have a conversation with someone who spoke english!

This morning, I lazed in bed until checkout when I could change hotels (taking a few deep breaths before encountering the crazy world outside!) I also met my current roommate, Michelle, the teacher. Hereby she shall be refered to as Country Michelle, and I am City Michelle. She's nice and we went out shopping together. (I bought all the things I didn't bring to Vietnam: a spare day bag, times two after I saw one I liked better, a watch and a fan. Shopping addict much? I'm cutting myself off until Hoi an!)

By the way, all the Vietnamese blokes were laughing at my efforts to carry my 10kg bag. "Light! Light!" "Not for me. I'm weak." He strikes pose. "Me strong man." I laughed, restraining my urge to say: "Me Jane."

Tommorrow is for the ChiChi tunnels and the War museum (am I bad if I say I'm not particularily looking forward to the latter?) Today I might manage to drag myself to a Pagoda or two, if I manage to overcome the little voice inside and get onto one of those motorcycles.


Photos will be uploaded when I remember to bring my USB cable.

I *heart* Singapore airlines - the service, food and entertainment were great - but just couldn't catch more than two hours or so sleep. I feel like the bag on my back is nothing compared to the bags under my eyes - and hence am tossing up if to shell out $AU24 for a 3 hour nap. (I figure it's worth it in sanity alone.)

By the way, this is the airport of the never-ending travellator. They stretch into the distance, a convayerbelt of people heading towards a mythical endpoint. Already, I've heard four different legends of where it may lead. The land of neverending chocolate is my bet.

Here it is. The Plan(TM):

30/12/05: Arrive in Ho Chi Minh City via a very long stopover in Singapore.
2/1/06: In the evening, embark on an 14 hour train trip (Yay!) to Nha Trang
3/1/06: Arrive in Nha Trang in the morning.
4/1/06: Day in Nha Trang. Overnight Sleeper to Danang.
5/1/06: Travel 30km to Hoi An. Marry Tailor.
8/1/06: Take a bus to Hue.
10/1/06: In the evening, hop on the Reunification Express for a 13 hour traintrip to Hanoi.
12/1/06: Drive to Halong Bay. Spend overnight in the national park of Cat Ba.
13/1/06-14/1/06: Hanoi.
15/1/06: Hightail it to the airport.
16/1/06: After a 9 HOUR wait in Singapore, arrive home in the morning.